Wales Bonner and Egonlab captivate with their musical tailoring in Paris
Roberta HERRERA
Despite the ongoing buzz surrounding Pharrell’s debut at Louis VuittonParis Fashion WeekWales Bonner
After almost an hour of anticipation, during which attendees enjoyed a pre-show performance by Nigerian instrumentalist Hama and the Sahel Sounds collective, Dutch model Imaan Hammam opened the runway show wearing a white midi dress paired with a matching trench coat and a beaded metallic mesh top. British designer Grace Wales Bonner thus inaugurated her distinctive “Marathon,” which served as the title for her Spring/Summer 2024 collection and foreshadowed a significant fashion moment at the Monnaie de Paris on the Rive Gauche.
In front of a select group of attendees, including British Formula 1 driver Lewis Hamilton and iconic supermodels Naomi Campbell and Liya KebedeAdidas
As for the garments, the designer, who was rumored as a potential replacement for Virgil Abloh as Louis Vuitton’s creative director for menswear, created elegant silhouettes that encompassed classic sportswear looks in vibrant tones, metallic textures, lightweight outerwear fabrics, bold floral and leopard prints, and even equestrian-style boots paired with shirt dresses or tailored shorts.
Craftsmanship was showcased through Tibeb fabrics made by artisans from Addis Ababa, hand-embroidered raffia details on jackets and skirts, beaded embellishments on women’s tailoring, and handmade glass beads from Ghana. The Olympic spirit was reflected in the Savile Row
The show’s soundtrack, produced by New York-based composer James William Blades and Grace Wales Bonner herself, created an immersive atmosphere with the melody of the traditional masinqo instrument and original recordings by Ethiopian artist HaddinQo.
Just a few hours earlier, the duo Egonlab welcomed their guests to the iconic Parisian concert venue Elysée Montmartre, near the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. Attendees ascended the grand staircase flanked by 30 Devialet speakers, the result of a collaboration between the fashion brand and the musical technology company, immersing them in a dark atmosphere filled with suggestive sounds.
Under the title “Toute Première Fois” (very first time), emerging designers Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix unveiled their eighth collection, remaining true to their omnipresent tailoring while inspired by “the need to redefine our relationship with our bodies” and evoking the liberation found in decision-making and “the power of life, growth, and pleasure.”
Throughout their exploration, the creative duo inevitably confronted traditional gender codes. From a double-breasted black suit jacket with a trapezoidal neckline that opened the show, hinting at a recurring cut, to overlapping pareo-shaped foulards and harness-style tops, and a long semi-transparent black dress or various layered skirts—both long and denim or pleated over minuscule shorts.
Glamorous elements were present in silk degradé shirts, oversized fur coats and bags, structured long leather trench coats, and short plunging jumpsuits. The color palette flirted with somber blacks that gradually gave way to golden, brown, and copper tones. Additionally, Egonlab highlighted denim with jeans in various washes and ultra-low rise, subtly revealing the models’ buttocks. A standout piece was an asymmetrical and three-dimensional silver top that straddled the line between a bow and a corset, serving as the show’s final look.
